Burgundy in Oregon


• By Allen Dale "Ole" Olson   |   Tuesday, July 6, 2010 at 2:57 pm   |     |   Print   |   Permalink

While I try not to let my biases interfere with objectivity, it is difficult for a lover of  Burgundy and of the Burgundians who have been kind to him, not to let a bit of bias show through.  That’s why when a wine sales rep showed me a 2005 Pinot Noir from the Cloudline Winery in the Willamette Valley, I took an uncommon interest in it. Cloudline opened about 2002 and is owned by Dreyfus Ashby Importers, who bring the wines of Drouhin to America. The Drouhins are among the Burgundians who have befriended me over the years.

As I sipped on this Pinot Noir, I felt immediately back in Burgundy. No, this was not one of those ephiphany-inspiring wines with high scores in the ratings games; it was one of those delicious wines a family along the Cote-d’Or might drink almost daily. Ruby red, soft on the tongue, silky on the finish, I could hardly believe it could retail for about $20.

Later I learned that the production of Cloudline Pinot Noir is overseen by Veronique Drouhin, who serves as a consultant to Cloudline. No wonder the true taste of Burgundy. Two years ago, while visiting the Drouhin Cellars in Beaune, I found the staff very willing to take pride in their Oregon cousins.

Not long ago I chanced upon a bottle of 2008 Cloudline Pinot Gris ($14.00 retail).  I have never forgotten what I was told in the late 1960s on my first visit to the Willamette Valley. “This is Pinot Gris country,” I heard over and over. True enough, and I have found splendid (and not so splendid) Pinot Gris coming out of Oregon, but Cloudline has it right.

This bottle transported me to Alsace, where Pinot Gris sets the standard for the variety. This, too, is overseen by Veronique, which explains its authenticity and true allegiance to its origins. Slightly gray in hue, a little tart on the tongue, and pleasantly grassy on the finish, this wine can solve your question about what wine to match with Thai or Indian cuisine. It’s so versatile, that Jinette Humbrecht told me “it’s a white wine you can serve when a red is called for but you don’t want a red.”

We are always reluctant to review specific wines, content to let the real professionals do that, but occasionally we can’t resist calling attention to exceptional value coming from a prestigious source. We just hope your servicing wholesalers make Cloudline wines available in your region.

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