RATIONALE: A smooth-as-silk and extremely food-friendly pinot noir that sings with salmon, tuna or lamb.

COUNTRY: United States

REGION: California (Carneros)

WINEMAKER: Jon Priest

PRICE: $42

GRAPES: 100 percent pinot noir

COLOR: reddish-black cherry

AROMAS: red and black cherries

FLAVORS: concentrated red and black cherries, with interesting notes of minerality

ALCOHOL: 14.2 percent

PAIRS WITH: duck, lamb, mushrooms, salmon, tuna

DISTRIBUTORS: D.C and Maryland: Bacchus, 800-525-9699. Virginia: Country Vintner, 800-365-9463

ANDREW’S PICK: 2006 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Pinot Noir

RATIONALE: A white masquerading as a red; a light, high-acid pinot that is pleasing, well priced and food-friendly.

COUNTRY: United States

REGION: California (Sonoma County)

WINEMAKER: Margo Van Staaveren

PRICE: $20

GRAPES: 100 percent pinot noir

COLOR: reddish-black cherry

AROMAS: cherries and blackberries

FLAVORS: lots of cherry and plum fruitiness characteristic of the grape, plus a creamy silkiness

ALCOHOL: 14.2 percent

PAIRS WITH: duck, lamb, mushrooms, salmon, tuna

DISTRIBUTORS: D.C.: Washington Wholesale, 202-832-5600. Maryland: Reliable Churchill, 410-439-5000. Virginia: Republic National, 804-226-4362

NOTE: Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to discover where wines are available near you, or ask a favorite wine store to order through the distributor.

Washington Post